They said it couldn't be done

«BACK TO THE BEGINNING  The 2008 Range Rider Red is a blend of hybrid grapes bred to withstand the cold Rocky Mountain winters. The grapes include Marechal Foch, Frontenac, St. Croix and Leon Millet. Ruby colored and aromatic, the Range Rider Red gives the nose a burst of red fruit and tangy spice. The red fruit is echoed on the palate, accented by cola and hints of smoke. I was pleasantly surprised at the soft edges, medium body and glorious fruit that came through in such a young wine.

Surely, some of the low acid and fruit flavors came from the portion of the grapes that went through carbonic maceration. This process gives Beaujolais its fruity, soft character and it gives the Range Rider a “sip-ability” that will no doubt bring it public accolade in the months to come. It was an instant hit with me.

The label on the Range Rider shows a retro cowgirl on a pinto cow pony. The wine inside reflects her sunny smile and the supple strength of a Montana cowgirl. Folks who have pooh-poohed organic wines and have been skeptical of winemaking in the Rockies will have their heads swiveled around quite quickly by the Range Rider Red. This beautiful wine has the versatility to match cedar plank salmon, grilled sausages or barbequed ribs. Look for it at local wine retailers in Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Washington and Oregon. ($17)

—Doug Badenoch, Wine Gallery, Bozeman, MT